I have stood in enough Wooster Square front gardens while an owner explains what the last contractor told them to have developed a short list of questions. None of them is technical enough to be unfair, and the answers sort people quickly.
The five questions
“What is causing this?” Not what will you do, what is causing it. A tradesperson will talk about water — where it comes from, where it goes, why it is failing here and not there. A salesperson will move straight to a product or a package. If nobody mentions gutters, grade or flashing at any point, be careful.
“What mortar will you use and how did you decide?” The answer should reference the existing wall. “Type N” is an acceptable answer if it comes with a reason. “Whatever the supplier has” or “the strong stuff, it lasts longer” tells you the wall was not considered.
“How deep will you cut the joints, and with what?” Two and a half times joint width, chisel or carefully guided saw. Anyone whose answer implies no cutting at all is describing a skim coat.
“Can I see something you did five years ago?” New work always looks good. Five-year-old work shows whether the mortar held and whether the color settled in. A mason with local history will have somewhere to send you.
“What happens if you open it up and it is worse than expected?” The good answer describes a unit rate and a conversation. The bad answers are an absolute guarantee that nothing extra will be found, or a shrug.
Three sales tactics worth recognizing
- Urgency about a structure that has been standing for a century. Real structural emergencies exist and they involve bulging, movement you can measure, or something actively falling. A crack that has been there since before you bought the house is not a reason to sign today.
- The free inspection that finds a large problem. Not always dishonest, but a diagnosis from someone who profits from the repair deserves a second opinion, particularly for anything over about $10,000.
- A single price with no scope. This is the most reliable signal of all, and it is discussed at length in getting comparable quotes.
The paperwork that matters
Before signing: a certificate of general liability insurance sent directly by the insurer, workers’ compensation coverage for anyone on your property, a state license number where your state licenses this trade, and a written contract with scope, unit rates for extras, schedule and payment terms.
Deposits of 10 to 30 percent are normal; half up front before mobilization is not. Withhold a meaningful final payment until the work has been inspected, and on masonry it is reasonable to inspect after the scaffold comes down rather than before. General guidance on contracts and vetting from the National Association of Home Builders covers the standard terms if you want a checklist.
What good work looks like when it is finished
Joints slightly recessed or tooled to match the original profile, not proud of the brick. No mortar smeared on brick faces. Consistent joint width matching the surrounding wall. Color close but slightly fresh, because it will lighten. Clean site, protected plantings, no mortar in the gutters or on the paving. And the contractor should be willing to walk the whole elevation with you and point at the areas they were unsure about.
Frequently asked questions
Should I use a general contractor or a masonry specialist? For masonry-only work, a specialist, every time. A general contractor subs it out and adds margin without adding judgment. Where masonry is one part of a larger project, a general contractor coordinating a good mason is reasonable.
Is a long-established firm always safer? Longevity means they have not gone out of business, which is a real signal. It does not guarantee current practice — some long-established firms have been repointing in Type S for forty years. Ask about method, not just about years.
What if I have already paid for work that was done badly? Document everything with dated photographs, put the complaint in writing with a specific request, and check whether your state has a contractor licensing board or a home improvement guaranty fund. Acting within the first few months matters, because a lot of remedies have time limits.